Climber Denis Urubko, vana vake, mufananidzo

Denis Urubko inzvimbo yakakwirira yepamusoro-soro yemakomo, yakakunda mimwe mibairo yepamarudzi akawanda, inokunda ye 14 yose-masereti (zvisikwa zvepasi pose) pasina kushandisa oxygen, munyori wemabhuku uye zvinyorwa.

Nzira yekubudirira

Urubko Denis Viktorovich (akazvarwa muna 1973) akapedza huduku hwake muguta reNevinnomyssk, Stavropol Territory. Mhuri yake yakatamira kuSakhalin nekuda kwehutachiona hwema asthma huri kukura mumunguva yemberi apo aiva nemakore gumi nemaviri. Mune imwe nzvimbo, Denis akafamba zvikuru mumasango, achiwana ruzivo rwakakosha mumararamiro emumunda. Achivhenekera nekukwira kwemakomo muna 1990, akakunda nzvimbo yakakwirira yeSakhalin ine urefu hwe 1609 m.

Urubko oga akaenda kumakomo eAltai ane makore gumi nemasere, uko akakwira kuEastern Belukha, iyo yakakwirira kupfuura 4,5 mamita mamita. Paaidzidza kuVladivostok Institute of Arts, vechiduku Denis vakashanda mumugariro weguta realpinism pamwe chete uye vakabudirira kubata nemitemo yekuwana mitsara. MunaFebruary 1992, iye neshamwari yake vakakwira kuChitamende (4750 m) muKamchatka.

Akaenda kubasa semubatsiri mugomo achikwira kuPamir-Altai, Denis Urubko akakunda mazana mashanu ekutanga-chikwi - Aklyubek (5125 m). Muna 1993, akatamira kuAlma-Ata pamusana wekukoka komukuru mukuru weCentral Army Sports Club, akatora Kazakhstani kuva vagari venyika uye akapfuura basa rehondo. Kubva muna 2001, akadzidzira pasina chiitiko paChipatimendi cheRwandinalism kuunivhesiti yemo.

Kubvira muna 1993 kusvika muna 2014, Denis akaita nhamba huru yezvikepe zvakakura munyika yose, kusanganisira kukwira mumakomo ePamirs, Tien Shan, Karakorum uye Himalaya.

Muna 2013, Denis akatamira kuRyazan ndokutora chizvarwa cheRussia. MunaFebruary 2015, achibatsirwa neshamwari dzake - vakakurumbira vezvikomo, akakwanisa kuwana umambo hwekuPoland. Parizvino, Urubko inopedza nguva yakawanda muItaly, uye inowanzodzidzisa muSouth of Poland uye kuBaskonia.

Zvinyorwa uye kubudirira

Muna 1999, Denis Urubko akapinda mumisangano yegore negore yakatsaurirwa kuyeuka anonzi Anatoly Bukreev. Akakunda kure uye akazosvika kumusangano pahupamhi hwe 3,970 m munguva yakanyorwa - 1 awa nemaminitsi gumi nemashanu.

Pamakwikwi ekukurumidza kwekukwira kugomo reKhan-Tengri mugore ra2000, akawana kubva mumusasa mukuru, uri pamakiromita 4000 m, kusvika kumusangano (7010 m) mumaawa manomwe nemaminitsi 40.

Muna 2001, Denis kwemaawa maviri mberi kwechengeti rekodi Anatoly Bukreev paakakwira kusvika kumusoro kwegomo gomo Gasherbrum (8035 m) kubva kumusasa (5800 m). Akakunda nebasa iri maawa manomwe.

Urubko yakaratidza chigumisiro chinoshamisa mumasangano egore negore pane ainzi Elbrus muna 2006. Kuti uende kuWestern peak (5642 m), kutanga paAzau (2400 m), zvakamutorera nguva isingapfuuri maawa mana.

Muna 2009, akaonekwa semunhu wechisere munyika yose, akakunda zvikamu gumi nembiri zvepanyika (ane urefu hwepamusoro pe 8000 m) pasina kushandiswa kwemajini oksijeni.

Munhu weMountaineer

• Nhamba huru ye ascents Denis Urubko yakaitwa pamwe chete nemugumo unozivikanwa wegomo reItaly Simone Moreau. Vose vakazoona zvirongwa uye kurota, kuva ivo vokutanga mukukunda makomo emakomo. Simone anotaura nezveDenis semurume akazarura uye achitaura, achifunga kuti iye anoshanda zvakanaka.

• Urubko nguva nenguva anobata misangano yemweya mumaguta akasiyana-siyana eRussia uye nyika, paanofara achigovera zvaanoona uye nyaya dzekumusoro nevanofanirwa nemakomo uye zvemitambo yekukwikwidza. Hasha dzake uye tarenda inoratidzira inobudisa pfungwa huru kune vateereri, saka zvidzidzo zvake zvinokonzerwa nesimba uye chido chekuedza kuita zvitsva.

• Denis ane unyanzvi hwake hwekufambisa. Muhuduku hwake akaona kukunda kwezvikomo zvemakomo sechiitiko chekutsvaga, kuwanikwa kwenyika yakapoteredza nekusiyana kwayo. Gare gare yaiva nguva yemutambo, paakaongorora zvaaiita mumakomo. Pari zvino, Urubko inofunga kukwira kwemakomo seunyanzvi umo unhu hwomunhu hwemunhu uye hunyanzvi hunodzidziswa.

• Denis munhu asina hanya nemamwe matambudziko evanhu, ndicho chikonzero akabatanidzwa mumabasa akawanda ekudzikinura: akabva aburuka kubva kumusoro kwevaPoland vanodzidza Anna Chervinsk naMarcin Kachkan, mutauro wechiFrench Jean-Christophe Lafay, weRussia Boris Korshunov.

Bibliography

Nenzira yakanaka, Denis Urubko ndiye anodzidza, uyo anewo tarenda renyorwa. Anozvimirira achizvimirira achitsanangura kumusoro kwake uye anogovera zvirongwa zvake zvemangwana mubhuku rake. Mukuwedzera, iye ndiye munyori wezvinyorwa zvakawanda uye mabhuku akawanda pamusoro pekukwirira, kusanganisira "Inofamba muzviso", "Absurd Everest", "Chasing the Snow Leopard."

Mhuri

Munhu anononoka anoedza kupa nguva uye simba kwete kwete kukunda zvikomo, asiwo kumhuri. Denis akaroorwa naOlga Igorevna Kvashnina, uyo anotsigira murume wake mumabasa, kwete chete neshoko, asiwo mune zvaanoita. Mudzimai wacho anobatsira kugadzirisa mibvunzo pamusoro pekubudiswa nekuparadzirwa kwemabhuku ake. Kunyange zvazvo Olga isiri nyore kurega Denis achienda kune dzimwe nguva, anoziva kuti kunze kwavo acharasika mavara akajeka ehupenyu hwake.

Imwe hupenyu hukuru, iyo Denis Urubko inotaura muhurukuro yake, vana. Ndiye baba vevanasikana vatatu (Anna, Maria naAlexra) uye vanakomana vaviri (Stepan naZakhar).

Denis Urubko murume ane simba guru uye simba, achiyemura. Anonyanya kuda zvebhizimisi rake, anoshandisa zvose zvingagona uye anobva akunde kunyange kubva mumamiriro ezvinhu akaoma zvikuru!